Thursday, September 20, 2007

More Ramadan

Somehow I had always gotten the impression that Ramadan is a subdued time. Wrong! Despite not eating OR drinking anything all day, the season is generally considered happy. There is a degree of grumbling, especially around 4 PM (by me too!) but 'iftar" is a big deal. People go to each others houses, restaurants have iftar specials, family members gather, etc.

The English teachers went downtown to Sultanahmet (the main tourist area) the other night for iftar. Turned out some teachers were taking students also so we were quite a big group. The whole are was decorated and full of vendors selling special food, souveniers, etc. It was also mobbed with people.

There are restaurants which are specially favored and those have lines starting at 5:30. Ours is famous for serving a special kind of sausage sandwich which is only available during Ramadan. Sunset is not until about 7:20 and you can't miss it because the imam announces it from the minaret of the famous Blue Mosque right next door. We were all seated by 6:00 and sitting staring at the table with stomachs rumbling until 7:05. Then, to accommodate the size of the crowd, they start to serve the soup. Then we all sit and stare at the soup and the water (remember they have not had anything to drink since dawn) until the imam sings. Then people fall on the food like they haven't eaten in a month.

After dinner, we walked around the square sampling sweets, some were buying books (a special buy during this season) , or just enjoying the crowd. I have been told that teachers will be invited to students' houses but that hasn't happened yet.

We have a late night school bus to take us home at 9:30 so I can get home . Yesterday, I must admit, when I did not have an iftar to attend, I ate dinner at 5:30! My other offense is that I do drink water all day. But, since I don't get up at 3:30 with the drummers to eat breakfast, I think I am entitled.

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